The first VFO-458 came in all OK. The seller, didn't know if there was supposed to be a second
807 in the unit so he placed one in and soldered a plate lead back in place. I had to remove it and
after checking that the mods were done correctly for this unit, I modified it. The modifications were
not "life threatening", I followed the manual, and everything was OK, so I replaced the AC line cord
as the current one was dry and cracked. I then drilled a hole for the red pilot lamp assembly, so now
I have two units very similar except for the knobs. One has the original BC-458 vfo knob and the
other has a regular knob, with a brass insert. The insert was drilled out to be snug around the vfo shaft
and secured with a set-screw, the brass insert has an outside diameter of .25 inch which is then used to
attach the regular knob. Here are a few pictures of the bottom after modifications, and the top with the
second tube installed , which I removed.

The top view with the extra tube.
That is the one with the green wire.

The modifications and the mixing scheme used, only require a single 807. I used my TEK 2712
spectrum analyzer to set up the signals out of the unit for the correct mixing, injection frequencies.
If you set them up correctly, and the CE10(*)/CE-20A mixing circuits are also set up correctly,
then you can indeed operate 160 - 10 meters with NO further modifications required. There is a
circuit used by some folks to increase the drive level on 10 meters, I found that once I set the rigs up
per the manual, 10 meter drive/output was optimal, and the units were very stable. Cool!

VFO number two arrived in serious shape, it did not survive shipping very well. The above photo was used
for E-bay and was why I bought it. The AC switch is a mini-toggle and the shaft got broken off, as did the
large knob. Otherwise it worked just fine. So I got out my B.A.M.A. manual and the addendums from the
big folder of CE-10B info and checked it out, real neat job done on the conversion. Its case was a little bent
but some "C" clamps and blocks of wood I use for the purpose, straightened that right out and then cleaning
was all that was required for the case. I had to find a replacement knob, and manufacture an insert for it to
clamp onto the BC-458 vfo shaft. I have loads of the miniature AC switches, made by CK so I replaced
that and then turned to the interconnect cables to the Exciter units, which ends in an "Octal" plug. I also checked
the ground sides of the unit so I could install a new line cord, using a polarized plug. The green power indicator
was burned out, so in keeping with uniformity I put in a red light, that can be changed from the front panel.

Back to the Central Electronics page